Mid to late 18th century
Gold and diamond ring, the openwork bezel in the form of a diamond and ruby spray of three-petalled flowers tied with a ribbon, stylised leaf hoop
14.7 mm internal ring diameter; 2.33 g weight
Bought in Frankfurt
Presented by Dr C.D.E. Fortnum in honour of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, 1897; WA1897.CDEF.F578
Giardinetti (translates from Italian as 'little garden') rings became popular in the second half of the eighteenth century. The designs seem to evolve from the previous century when the supply of larger stones was limited, meaning craftsmen had to devise patterns that could utilise groups of smaller gems. Another important innovation in the late seventeenth century was the placing of the diamond in a silver setting as opposed to gold, thus avoiding the yellow reflections. This feature can be seen in these rings. These delicate asymmetrical openwork designs, however, are typical of the rococo taste of the later eighteenth century.
Scarisbrick and Henig, Finger Rings, 2003, pl. 25.5