The
Object of the Month is a man’s ikat coat collected by the
explorer Robert Shaw in 1868/69, on his travels to Kashgar and
Yarkand (in what was Eastern Turkestan, now China). ‘Ikat’
refers to the technique used to give the coat its extraordinary,
vibrant effect.
Ikat
Technique
The coat is patterned with ikat, a textile technique that is especially
well developed in Asia. The word ‘ikat’ comes from
the Malay-Indonesian for ‘to tie’.
The
term is applied to a resist-dye process where prior to weaving,
warp or weft (or in some cases both) are tied off with a resist
fibre and are then dyed. Resist ties are removed or new ones are
added for each colour. After dyeing, all resists are opened, and
the patterned yarns are woven.